|
Zippers are available in a wide range of weights, lengths and colors, to suit most needs. There are also special purpose zippers, such as open-ended and double slider zippers, often used in sports and children's wear. The pattern should specify the type and size of zipper you will need.
There are several different ways of inserting a zipper, depending on whether the zipper is positioned to one side of the opening, in a lapped seam or opening, or centered in the opening. The lapped method is more often used at side seams in garments and the centered, channel seam is used for center front or back openings, and openings in a panel of fabric, such as cushion covers.
The opening for a zipper should be 3/8 inch longer than the zipper, plus seam allowance at the open end of the zipper as necessary. The pattern should give detailed measurements.
Zippers should be inserted at the same time as the rest of the seam is stitched, when possible. Any seams that run across the zipper will have to be stitched before the zipper can be set in. In a skirt, set in the zipper before attaching the waistband. In a faced opening, set it the zipper then turn under the ends of the facing and finish by hand, stitching the turned-under facing to the zipper tape.
For a professional touch, particularly on fine fabrics, finish the zipper by hand as follows:
Stitch the zipper in place as before, omitting topstitched finish. Use a fine needle and matching thread, and start from the lower end of the zipper. Fasten the thread with two baskstitches on the underside of the zipper tape. Bring the needle through from the underside at the seamline, and use a prick stitch to finish the zipper, taking only one or two threads of the fabric in each stitch. Stitch across the end of the zipper, up the side, and across the top of the zipper if the top is enclosed.
For centered zippers, work from the wrong side, hand or machine baste along the length of the opening. Press the seam, then press it open. Position the zipper on the wrong side of the opening, and pin in place, positioning the pins across the zipper, avoiding the teeth. Baste by hand, 1/4 inch from sewn, down each side of opening. Using the zipper foot, adjusted to the left of the needle, stitch down the right-hand side of the zipper, across the lower edge, and back up the other side. If the end of the zipper is closed, the seam continuing beyond the zipper, follow the same method, stitching across both ends of the zipper.
|
| |
